Once the head assembly is complete, you can place it into the top of the body in the opening of the top flap.
Apply pressure throughout the assembly, making sure all joints are solid. Apply glue to the inside of the front half of the mouth-y head thing and then seal it together. Glue the rings for the head onto the inside of the back half and then apply glue to the tabs that flank the neck. Once all the folds have been made, glue the one that folds the head assembly in half. These are scored on the back of the template. The mouth-y head thing has a valley fold. With the leechoso, it’s important to keep the top open. The straight edge is used to provide pressure over the entire joint. Score, fold, glue to make the rectangular shape. Once you’ve made the tube, use the tweezers to secure the bond. The easiest part is the rolling of the legs. I use the library card to keep the entire assembly flat and together while the glue sets. Once that’s dry, glue the inside of the flat round parts of the foot, setting the ring inside. For the feet, fold and then glue what becomes the heel. Score and fold the triangles and then use the tweezer to hold the joint until the glue dries. When building the parts that become the feet and the mouth-y head thing, I’ve found it’s best to build the four rings first. Use a lamp to back light the template so you can see exactly where to place the fold. Once all the lines are scored, use a library card to make sure the folds are as crisp as possible. Some use a butter knife to prevent cutting the paper. Make sure to apply just enough pressure to form the line for the fold. Once you’ve removed the design, score all of the folding lines, again using the straight edge. In the case of the leechoso, it’s the asterisk on its feet and underside where the legs will eventually go.
Cutting these slots for arms, hair, etc is much more difficult once you start building it. Make sure to cut any slots within the design while the template is still flat.
Use the markings on the straight edge as a reference for start/stop points. I like my cut to be in the direction away from any of the template so that you don’t risk cutting the design itself. I print mine out onto heavy weight matte paper, making sure, if it’s a multiple page file, to print all sheets at the same percentage.įind some good light and a comfortable spot. Most templates come as a PDF, so you’ll want a reliable reader. Library card – for precise foldsTweezers – for holding/pinching in small spacesKnife with small dull blade – for scoring along the fold lineKnife with large dull blade – applying glue into small spacesCutting knife – use with gripStraight edge – for scoring and cutting in a precise line Wood & metal sticks – applying pressure into a small spaceScissors – for cutting rounded piecesGlue – find what works best for you, I’m thinking about changingSelf-healing cutting matt – the perfect surface If you read yesterday’s piece on making paper toy monsters and you were inspired to wander down that perilously addictive road yourself, Garrison Beau Scott (aka baykiddead) himself, has agreed to share some of his tips and tricks with us.
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